Review: Gigliotto - Piazza Armerina

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Gigliotto Agriturismo
SS 117 bis km 60 - Piazza Armerina (EN)
+39 0933 970898 / +39 0933 979092


1 out of 3 Stars
Accommodation: 100 euro per couple
Dinner: 3 course meal, typical Sicilian ; 60 euro for two including wine

After being recommended in both the Lonely Planet Guide and the Touring Club of Italy - Guide to Sicily, both reputable and independent publications, one would assume that this agriturismo would come out trumps, especially as it was located in one of the most fertile areas of Sicily, being Piazza Armerina.

Gigliotto was described in glowing terms by both guides mentioned above.  One wonders if the authors actually stayed there.  The experience at Gigliotto can only be described as disappointing for the discerning traveller. The place itself, a converted monastery was simply beautiful and stylishly restored. The immaculate gardens and surrounds had a significant amount of work done on them. The extension of the guest rooms external to the original monastery itself, were built in the style of the monastery and thus structural harmony was retained. The unobstructed views of a snow capped Mount Etna in the distance were priceless, while the plantations consisting of rows of prickly pears (fichi d'india) and olive trees gave the visitor a warm and uniquely Sicilian feeling.

The sad thing is that although the owner has obviously exerted considerable effort and energy in restoring this place and in creating a splendid location it is unfortunately let down by the management and of the quality of the produce and meals.

Upon arrival, we were greeted by the front desk manager who barely lifted his eyes from his sporting newspaper in order to greet us. The usual feeling of warmth and genuine social contact you seem to expect from Sicilian agriturismi was missing. It is the people, the characters, the stories and the local charm that draws you back to Sicilian agriturismi. Instead, at Gigliotto, there was the feeling of being in a place without a soul.

The room we were given was quite comfortable, warm and cosy. Mind you this was only after being initially shown to a room half the size with one quarter the window. The dinner was served between 8:00pm and 9:30pm and was simply not up to the standard Sicilian quality.

The caponatta, usually delicious, was largely bereft of the unique flavours that make it such a typical Sicilian dish. The rest of the antipasti was as inedible as it was uninspiring.  The olives were great though. Then came the driest meat dishes I have ever been served in Sicily. The pork looked as though it had been cooked in the morning, refrigerated and then heated up that night (a practice that the staff admitted to doing for the veal). The lamb, while slightly more tasty still seemed like yesterday's leftovers. The only dish that was of any quality was the fresh aromatised, Sicilian sausages.

No dessert was served, instead we were "treated" with Oranges and Mandarines that were old, greying and dry. And this from the land of the Orange Groves!  How you can manage to serve such poor quality oranges in a land where even the oranges left in the gutter retain a beautiful deep orange glow of freshness, is totally beyond me. The staff's protestations that the oranges were picked from the estate confused me further.

And the cost of this dinner - 30 euro per person! Sicily is a place where you would expect no more than 22 euro per person for dinner at an agriturismo and still eat like a local King.

The cost of the accommodation - 50 euro per person.

Overpriced for sure - and such a shame given the beauty of the location.

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For a Traditional Sicilian Experience ...

Via Carso 23

Nestled atop of a scenic mountain overlooking the sea and dominated by a 11th century castle, the mediaeval village of Carini is the perfect spot for those seeking a unique Sicilian holiday. A "real" Sicilian experience.

Siciliamo has just acquired the perfect house for a true romantic Sicilian getaway for those of you who want to immerse yourselves in all the beauty and abundance that Sicily has to offer. Located just minutes away from the Palermo Airport in the village of Carini, Via Carso 23 is an early 1900's building in a mediaeval cobbled-stoned alley, consisting of two floors. The house contains a dining room, one king side bedroom, a living area, a small study, fully equipped kitchen and two bathrooms.

The property is stylishly and tastefully furnished and is ideal for a couple who have an eye for quality and class and who want to enjoy the wine, food and ambiance of this magical land.

Rates are €80 per night or €400 per week. Each booking is entitled to a 20% discount on the "Dangerous Eating" Sicilian culinary experiences in Palermo. Also included is a welcome pack of Sicilian produce samples.

For all enquires, email Siciliamo at info@siciliamo.com, or go here.

South West on a Shoestring

Travelling on a budget?
No worries. Sicily is one of the few European destination where, if you know the right places, you can get a delicious meal for less than 20 euro and b&b accommodation on a picturesque rustic farm-house for just 30 euro.

Forget group tours: rent a car (possibly with GPS), drive around and explore this fantastic island in all your freedom.
If you are after great Greek temples and ruins, a stunning coastal drive and some serious wine tasting, head toward South West. You can sleep at the pretty Baglio Pocoroba near Segesta , This large archaeological zone, with its magnificent Doric temple, ranks as one of the best-preserved Greek architectural sites to be found anywhere! Tickets to the archaeological park cost less than 10 euro.
From Segesta you can drive along the scenic Strada del Sale (Salt Road) with the backdrop of the islets of Mozia, Isola Longa, Santa Maria and Isola della Schola, forming an archipelago inside the Stagnone, the largest lagoon in Sicily.
You can lunch or dine at the beautiful Duca di Castelmonte an 18th century Sicilian country house for 22 euro and sample delicious Sicilian produce. You can either spend the night at Duca di Castelmonte's for 40 euros including breakfast or reach Marsala for a very interesting guided tour of the famous cellar and some wine-tasting at the stunning and historic Cantine Florio, the place where the Marsala wine variety was first produced.

Tindari and the Story of the Black Madonna and Medusa

In mediaeval times the legend of the Black Madonna was augmented in France by some especially "esoteric" popular religious sects, common amongst them were the Knights Templars and Cathars. One of the central excuses the French monarchy issued in the persecution and destruction of the Knights Templars was the fact that they had adopted the Maure and had several "Baphomets" in their monasteries. The Templars had brought back with them the devotion to the Black Madonna from the Crusades.

The snake-haired Gorgon triplet Medusa is also a female Maure : And the only country with Medusa's Head on its flag is Sicily. The oldest surviving design of a Medusan Trinicria is in the mosaic in Tindari depicting the head of Medusa, in a geometrically circular black face.

Tindari is a cape that sits 10 kilometres east of the city of Patti on the northern coast of Sicily. Not on your usual tour itinerary, but Tindari, one of the many Greek / Roman sites in Sicily, spectacularly positioned on the island's North coast, is in yet another beautiful high altitude setting. Inside the huge purpose built 1950s Basilica located here, is the much revered Black Madonna - a larger than life iconic figure "from the East" dating back to the second half of the first millenium.

The mystery of the Sicilian Black Madonna , an image, a countenance which like the sunlight came as a gift to this land, via pathways still fraught with mystery from the Christian East sometime during the 7th Century. For hundreds of years it has patiently withstood raids by Saracens and pirates, conquerors and raiders, old and new, exhibiting the elegant sign of a continuity which recent restoration work has revealed in all its dignified beauty.

The Black Madonnas are associated with the earth, with darkness, mystery, and most importantly, with miracles. Many have theorised that these images and statues hearken back to the worship of the ancient Goddesses Isis and Demeter; indeed, some of the statues themselves are believed to be pre-Christian.

Many writers seeking to interpret the Black Madonnas suggest some combination of the following elements:

• Black Madonnas have grown out of a pre-Christian Earth Goddess tradition. Their dark skin may be associated with ancient images of these goddesses, and with the colour of fertile earth (such as around the volcanic Etna).

• Black Madonnas derive from the Egyptian goddess Isis. The dark skin may echo an African archetypal mother figure.

• Black Madonnas portrayed the original skin tone of the Virgin Mary, thus placing the figures in apt historical contexts, as Jesus' family was more likely than not to have Semitic colours and features.

Another beautiful legend arising from Tindari is the story of the Lagoon of Tindari. The story tells how a woman pilgrim refused to pray to the Madonna because she was black. The woman accidentally dropped her baby in the sea but the Black Madonna raised the sand in order to save the baby and demonstrate her compassion. The shape of the sands of the lagoon now show an image representing the profile of the Madonna (see photo).


If all of this intrigues you, why not consider a stop over in Patti, only a short stroll from Tindari. You can sleep at the picturesque farm-stay accommodation, Villa Rica surrounded by centuries old olive trees, lemon groves, fruit orchards and the particular Mediterranean vegetation.

Glamourama : Siciliamo's guide to the most exclusive "treats" in Sicily

Siciliamo introduces its first guide to the most exclusive Sicilian "treats" : Boutique Hotels, intimate restaurants, celebrity hot spots and all the components to those travellers seeking glamourous, luxurious and über-cool entertainment in Sicily.

Glamourama is for those who do not mind spending some extra money for a get-away in total bliss and intimacy.

This week in Glamourama, Siciliamo discovers Caol Ishka Hotel in Syracuse.

Caol Ishka is one of a kind. This boutique hidden gem only features 10 bedrooms to better spoil its guests, while the warm mix of materials, designer furniture and antique pieces have all been blended in a rustic environment.

The garden merges with the surrounding nature: a wide lawn beside the splendid swimming pool with Mediterranean plants and aromatic herbs gives way to bamboo, wild grass and spontaneous vegetation.

Rooms are stylishly designed and equipped with all modern comforts; bathrooms are spacious and comfortable, characterised by designer washbasins and large walk-in showers with Iroko decking and glass walls. Oversized doors have been crafted by local artisans with various finishes: bisazza mosaic, mirrors, fabrics, gold leaf.

For food lovers, the Zafferano Bistrot offers creative menus based on Sicilian traditional flavours. The chef only proposes recipes in harmony with seasonal and high quality local ingredients and flavours.

Info & Reservations

Glamourama : Hotel Quartara

Exclusive, prestigious boutique hotel, on the smallest island of the celebrities' favourite Aeolian archipelago : Panarea.
Hotel Quartara features a stunning Cromotherapy Jacuzzi and a "fine dining" restaurant.
There are 13 rooms, four of which overlook the sea and have a balcony. All rooms are decorated with handcrafted teak wood furniture, with each one a different style: colonial, minimalist, Chinese, etc.
In Broccia Restaurant a special dimension has been created for special people, where sensations, emotions and rhythms come together to captivate and hold the essence of life, of a way of being.
Chef Francesco Mansani is inspired by the creative kitchen, exalting fresh ingredients of the island.

Info and Reservations

Glamourama : Baglio della Luna

The natural elegance of Sicily is evident in the rural setting offered by Hotel Baglio della Luna, a rare example of ancient Sicilian memory at the doors of the Valley of the Temples in Agrigento. A courtyard circumscribed by high walls, guest quarters, and an old tower immersed in a natural and exuberant landscape evoking a Greek and Arabic past, places that invite one for an authentic experience.

The respectful restoration has salvaged the ancient structures dating from the 13th century which are set in a very green garden, full of Mediterranean plants. Here you will find the wellness corner with the relaxing hydro-massage pool and a very comfortable sauna.

"Dehors" is the refined and elegant restaurant of the Hotel, open to guests and the public at large and renowned throughout Italy for a cuisine that goes from the traditional to the most innovative, always featuring Sicilian elements and offering a carefully selected wine list showcasing Sicilian Greats, the best Italian as well as French and International wines.

Info & Reservations

Glamourama : Palazzo Federico

Have you ever dreamt of living like a prince or a princess?

The Palazzo Conte Federico is one of the oldest and most important buildings in Palermo. It is in the centre of the old city only a few steps away from the Palazzo Reale, the Cathedral and the Cappella Palatina.

Your hosts Count and Countess Federico will take you on a cultural trip around the 12th century palazzo and will make you feel just like at home.

The guest room, the “Federico Suite”, is unique in its style.

Exactly as it was in the 17th century, it summons up a surreal, almost timeless, atmosphere. The monumental bed, made from the panels of the old music hall ceiling, is a masterpiece, as is the wardrobe. In addition, there are brocade curtains, antique furniture, carpets and paintings.

Info & Reservations

B&B with a flair

Palermo offers a lot in terms of great accommodation. From modern, new-concept structures to sumptuous four stars hotel. But I am still of the idea that the best way to discover this fascinating city is to save your money for the endless variety of restaurants, entertainment and excursions around the island.

A good compromise between quality and value for money is b&b Cluverio.

Cluverio is a boutique b&b in a 1900 building that features tastefully furnished, comfortable bedrooms, with or without en-suite bathroom. Here you will enjoy the warm Italian hospitality from your hostess Marilia, a longtime Siciliamo friend, who will make you feel welcome and at home.

Rich and delicious Italian breakfast will be served in the stylish living room, between tasteful furniture and domed fresco painted ceilings, typical of the turn of the century's elegance.

An ADSL Internet point is at your disposal, as well as a stylish reading room.

Cluverio also enjoys a strategic position : Located in the heart of Palermo, all the major points of interest are just a stroll away.

Pricing :
double room: from euro 45 to max 70
single room : from euro 25 to max 35

Airport transfers available on arrangement


B&B Cluverio
Via Cluverio 7
90100 - Palermo
Tel. +39 091 584755
http://www.cluverio.it/

Please note :
Marilia's English is not so good!
If you need assistance for a reservation, you can book through Siciliamo by sending an email to : info.siciliamo@gmail.com

Spa Heaven

Imagine pampering yourself with a Sicilian high salt energizer : a total body exfoliation followed by a gentle massage with local olive oil and Sicilian citrus fruits extracts.

Enjoy the soothing effects of warm volcanic clay followed by a dip into the natural hot springs situated inside grottos, lakes and at the slopes of a massive volcano : Sicily is a real spa heaven.

Hot springs and natural beauty treatment tradition in Sicily lies in volcanic subterranean activity, recorded from Roman times. A spa itinerary reveals an aspect of Sicily that is perhaps less known but not for this, less fascinating. The starting point is Acireale, north of Catania. Situated in the Santa Venera al Pozzo district where the Hot Springs Park is today. Sourced from volcano Etna, these amazing spas literally warmly welcome visitors providing a relaxing and rejuvenating holiday. Richard Wagner was also a Sicilian hot springs assiduous visitor.

Driving towards Messina you will reach Ali Terme spa, just after Taormina : its facilities – Marino and Granata Cassibile – were even “”promoted” by Descartes during his trip to Italy (1623-1625).

The next stop along the Tyrrhenian coast is Terme Vigliatore: it relies on the Source of Venus, one of the few sulphurous waters that can be drunk normally.

Termini Imerese (Palermo) is ancient Thermae Himerensis: vestiges of the old facilities remain in the 19th century Grand Hotel delle Terme , where you can chose between several thermal treatments. (bath towels are not included, therefore bring your own if you don't want to pay an extra fee!)

But if you are in Palermo, why not indulging in a purifying Turkish bath at the Hammam Centre.

Leaving Palermo behind you, you will reach Castellamare del Golfo (Trapani) with its fine Aragonese Castle. Terme Segestane spa in the Ponte Bagni district is located near the springs the nymphs forced to flow in order to refresh Hercules. Calatafimi is just a few kilometres away: from Monte Barbaro, the Greek theatre of Segesta dominates the plain, while the hot spring facilities are near the Gorga stream in an old renovated watermill.

For a luxury treatment and total bliss head toward Mazara del Vallo, at the Kempisky Hotel Giardino di Costanza where Daniela Steiner runs her splendid spa. Try the special moonlit massage to channel the lunar energies or chose between the long list of special treatments that combine Sicilian natural produce and scientific rigour.

Going south you will arrive at Montevago (Agrigento) with its Acqua Pia hot springs surrounded by a lush park. And finally there is Sciacca along the coast, the oldest spa on the island. According to the myth, it was Daedalus who made the steam vents, hollowed out of the rock, now called San Calogero.

But the natural spa heaven par excellance is to be found all over the Sicilian island of Pantelleria.

The island offers a large variety of hot springs, as well as dry natural saunas, in the grottoes and wells scattered around the island and coast. You can reach the Benikulà grotto through a fault in the rock in the Sibà district. Water vapour at around 38°C comes out of a crack in the ground providing a true natural sauna. The sulphurous spring in Lake Specchio di Venere is very popular, while the baths in the natural basins along the coast are a must: Gadir Cove, Sataría Grotto and Niká Cove. The great thing is that all this comes for free!

Useful information
Sulphurous iodic bromine salt waters gush out at Acireale (at 22°C), at Alì Terme (at Marino at 39.5°C and at Granata Cassibile at 46.5°C), at Termini Imerese (at 43°C) and at Sciacca (at 55.4°C); alkaline at Calatafimi-Segesta (at 52°C); muddy alkaline phosphate salty at Castellamare del Golfo (at 44.1°C): therapeutic recommendations include treatment for diseases of the skin, locomotive and respiratory system. At Montevago, the magnesium calcium sulphate water (at 39°C) is recommended for diseases of the locomotive and respiratory system. At Terme Vigliatore, the water of the Source of Venus at 32.6°C is also recommended for diseases of the liver, biliary ducts and digestive system. The acid radioactive waters of Vulcano are also recommended to treat articular rheumatism and arthritis while the baths in Pantelleria have an extraordinary energising effect. All the hot spring facilities also offer other wellness and beauty cures and treatments (including cosmetic massages, kinesi and hydrokinesitherapy, fitness and anti-stress programmes), and are equipped with hot spring pools and playgrounds for children. At Acireale, the Santa Venera Hot Springs holds classical music and jazz concerts, theatre and dance shows in the summer.

Ustica - a Diver's Paradise

Just arrived in Ustica. Tiny island of volcanic origin off the Palermo's coast.

The fresh sea breeze is soothing down the warm Sicilian heat and I am thrilled to show Dean around this special place that means so much to me.. .

My family grew up in Ustica and so did I. We used to all spend every summer in a lovely country-house located in the wildest side of the island, close to the Protected Marine Reserve, a paradise for divers world-wide.

My grandfather was very close to Enzo Majorca and Jacques Majol, two of the biggest lovers and supporters of this magnificent island. They used to dive in crystal clear blue waters and spend entire days admiring the abundant rainbow fish.

For a variety of reasons, I have not returned to the island for the past 18 years. While waiting in line to board the Hydrofoil to Ustica, it all started coming back to me, a flood of emotions, flashes of special moments and some of my childhood's happiest memories engulfed my thoughts. How could I forget the smell of just ripe cherry tomatoes, the donkey rides, the sleepy town coming to life at night in the piazza.
Nothing has changed since then. Ustica is still that timeless place that I had much loved.

The boat ride from Palermo takes about 1h15 and costs 19,00 euros one way. (http://www.usticalines.it/)

Upon our arrival, Signor Nino pick us up with a minivan, courtesy of our Hotel. Not that this was really necessary, I mean, the sleepy village of Ustica is about five minutes on foot from the tiny marina. Everything is so close and accessible that it does not even look real.

We are staying at Hotel Patrice, located just a stroll from the main piazza http://www.hotelpatrice.it/

Patrice, the owner, greets us with an overwhelming Sicilian hug. She remembered me from the good old times.

Hotels here are albeit basic but comfortable and above all the pricing is not inflated like most Italian summer destinations.

We prepare for another excellent meal in the terraza overlooking the deep blue Tyrrenian sea. The Chef is a big man, therefore we have great expectations.

The morning after we decide to hire a boat and tour the island and its magnificent grottos. The vision is surreal : the water from the seabed reflects an iridescent blue-green light inside the rock carved cave. Impossible not to swim.

To hire a boat or a dinghy in Ustica is a must. It costs around 45 euros for 2.5 hours, which is as long as it takes to make a round tour.

Da Gaetano you can hire almost everything : from scooters to diving equipments to boats.

Via C. Colombo 37 ( very close to the Port) – 091 8449243 (Italian speaking only)

In the afternoon we went on a donkey ride to another secluded beach. We “parked” the donkey, put on our snorkeling gear and dived in the natural pools close to Punta Spalmatore.

Our donkey was happy to take us anywhere for few cuddles and a little fresh grass in return!

But the highlight of our trip has been definitely our snorkeling guided tour inside the Protected Natural Marine Reserved in Cala Sidoti.

The excursion provides an amazing experience, by following a couple of Marine Biologist for a 45 minute snorkeling session. This Non-profit organization called S.E.P.I.A provides snorkeling gear, including a wet suit and waterproof headset to listen to commentaries underwater.

We follow a breathtaking underwater itinerary made up of extraordinary flora and fauna.

Ustica's marine environment has been greatly enhanced by the rare circumstance of having no source of water pollution, and having suffered relatively little from man's presence over the centuries.

You can follow your own free of charge lesson of marine biology by booking a snorkeling session with S.E.P.I.A at Piazza Umberto I – 091 8449456.

This is a truly amazing experience and you won't be disappointed.

When in Sicily, Do as They Do

Source: The New York Times - Travel

Dolce & Gabbana is as synonymous with Sicily as old ladies in veils and young Romeos on scooters. Since founding the label in 1985, the designers Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana have mined the island for inspiration with the zeal of latter-day Viscontis. They have made stylistic allusions to its sartorial traditions - ecclesiastic and aristocratic - named one of their fragrances after it and used it as the backdrop for some of their most memorable advertising images. They have also frequently vacationed there, spending two weeks every summer de-stressing on the secluded island of Stromboli and dancing under the mirrored balls in the bustling resort town of Taormina. "We love Sicily," says Dolce, a native Sicilian. "It is the perfect place to just relax - eat, read and not worry about the stress of work. And we always come back with so many ideas. It is very magical."
Gabbana's account of a typical day in Taormina certainly sounds enchanting. "We like to rent scooters or stay on the beach or meet friends in Mazzarò Bay," he says. "In the afternoon, you can go antiques shopping in the center or have a granita and brioche at a bar."
But it's at night that they come alive. "We meet our friends at around 10 in the piazza in front of the Chiesa Santa Caterina," Gabbana says. "We go to a restaurant or to a pizzeria if we want a light dinner. Then we might scooter over to a club. We usually finish very late, with a good cornetto in some small pub, or watch the sunrise."
So, who better to play travel guides than the men who helped put Sicily on the style map? The images on these pages were shot at some of Dolce and Gabbana's favorite haunts in Taormina. Given their passion for Italian cinema - Anna Magnani and Sophia Loren are their perennial muses - we cast two emerging stars of Italian film, Valeria Solarino and Adriano Giannini, as our models. Solarino appeared in the critically acclaimed "La Febbre" and "La Felicità Non Costa Niente." She was born in Venezuela and raised in Turin, but her heart belongs to Daddy's home. "To me, Sicily is my father," she says. "He lived there, and I would visit him every childhood summer. Going there to work felt weird."
Not so for Giannini, who is the son of the actor Giancarlo Giannini and who starred alongside Madonna in "Swept Away." Before acting, the younger Giannini spent several months as a cameraman's assistant on the island, which has often been mythologized in Italian neorealist films. "The image of Sicily in the movies is valid up to a point," he says. "There are definitely towns that look like they are stuck 40 years ago, but it's obviously evolved beyond the cinematic cliché. It's a really strange place, even for us Italians, but it has to be seen to be believed."

When in Sicily, Do as They Do

Seasoned travelers know about Taormina's gardens and palazzi - not to mention the Caffè Wunderbar, where Liz and Richard drank the locals under the table. Here are Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana's favorite spots.

Hotels

Hotel Sant'Andrea (Via Zara 36; 011 39 0789 65205). "This place is great, especially in summer," Gabbana says. "It's an old villa facing the sea with a nice private beach and a good restaurant. And it's close to the market."

Grand Hotel Timeo (Via Teatro Greco 59; 011 39 0942 23801). "Beautiful views of Mount Etna, beautiful people, beautiful gardens and very close to the Greek theater," Dolce says, referring to the town's famous second-century auditorium, which holds the Taormina Arte festival in summer. "Bellissimo."

Restaurants

Gambero Rosso (Via Naumachia 11; 011 39 0942 24863). "I especially like the fried fish and spaghetti with ricci di mare" (or sea urchin roe), Gabbana says. "It's a little restaurant, not trendy, but very good. Il Delfino, near the Hotel Sant'Andrea, serves mainly seafood and is also worth trying."

Il Baccanale (Piazzetta Filea 1; 011 39 0942 625390). "The food in Sicily is fantastic, especially the fish," says Dolce, who is a particular fan of swordfish rolls, a local specialty. "But if you want meat, try Il Baccanale. It's really, really small, the size of a pizza."

Lighter Fare

BAM Bar (Via di Giovanni 45; 011 39 0942 24355). "For me, one of the simple luxuries in Sicily is to take granita" - flavored, crushed ice - "and brioche at the BAM Bar," Gabbana says.

Pasticceria Minotauro (Corso Umberto 8; 011 39 0942 24767). "The other great thing is to have Sicilian cannoli at an old pasticceria near Etna," Dolce says. "They're delicious, and the view of the volcano is unbelievable."

Bars and Clubs

La Giara (Vico La Floresta 1; 011 39 0942 23360). "There are so many great places for an aperitif or after-dinner drink," Dolce says, "but we like the bar at La Giara. After 7 p.m., it's possible to get a good cocktail surrounded by cute young people, but it doesn't get crowded until at least 10."

Marabù (Via Iannuzzo; 011 39 0942 653029). "For late-night dancing on the weekend," Gabbana says, "we scooter down to the Giardini Naxos to Marabù, a beautiful, open-air discothèque. But that's only when you want to have a late night."

Hilton Portorosa opens in Sicily

Hilton Portorosa, the only five star leisure and conference hotel in the north east region of the legendary island of Sicily, opened its doors this week, becoming the second Hilton hotel in Sicily and the second Hilton Worldwide Resort in Italy. The spectacularly located nine-storey new hotel is framed by a private sandy beach on one side and Sicily’s premier tourist port, the Portorosa Marina, on the other. The 263-room hotel boasts one of the largest conference facilities in Sicily. Welcoming the new addition to the Hilton family, President for Hilton Hotels Europe, Mr Wolfgang M. Neumann said, “This is an important hotel for us. Hilton Portorosa provides yet another exciting step in a growing network of 11 Hilton family of brand hotels in this country and it signals our second Hilton in Sicily, a destination that is fast becoming the newest getaway for seasoned travellers to Europe.“

Rates start from £146 per room per night inclusive of Hilton Breakfast and can be booked on Hilton.com/worldwideresorts.

Live like a Princess in Palermo

"Don't go to Palermo with an itinerary only, go with an open heart," pleads fashion designer Domenico Dolce. The co-founder of Dolce & Gabbana speaks of his home town with a passion shared by its patrician residents. Since the recent revival of Palermo as a tourist mecca, many leading families have decided to open their ancestral homes - and even their hearts - to the public. While most palaces are willing to hold wedding receptions and grand dinners, a select number now welcome paying guests. Even prestigious princes need to keep a (regularly restored) roof over their heads, and have to count the cost of cleaning priceless chandeliers and portable altars.
Sicily nurtures the seductive illusion that you are a treasured guest rather than a common tourist. But it may not be an illusion: Sicilian hospitality is legendary, as suffocatingly sweet as the local cassata sponge cake. These sumptuous palaces are genuine homes, even if it is a gothic pile with a baroque ballroom and medieval kitchen. As such, the pleasures are deeply domestic, with the chance to saunter from one scene to another, from balconies as private as boudoirs to the bustling market beyond the portals. Set amidst a jumble of eastern-style souks, tiny squares and scented gardens, these noble palaces present secret snapshots of the city.
The families are a delightful mixture of the imperious and the genuinely imperial, of desiccated old fogeys and dynamic entrepreneurs. Among the charming princesses and courtly, tweed-clad princes lurk occasional crashing snobs bound to their family tree. Rivalry is rife, if expressed in genteel terms, with gentle shrugs laced with wicked asides. Some nobles manage to move with the times while others are mired in the past, living off splendid memories when the Sicilian nobility was awash with servile retainers. But nowadays, even princesses remember to turn out the lights and turn down the bed-covers. Fortunately, Sicilian hospitality and family pride succeed in making duty seem like pleasure rather than an irksome chore. Life has moved on, and the liveried footmen may be borrowed, but the generous city spirit stays the same.
In Palermo's palaces, it may be a case of taking in lodgers in order to restore crumbling loggias. But, given a sultry night, swaying palms and a princely bedroom, the city works its seductive spell. Palermo then becomes a playground for the senses - possibly with a Gothic en-suite bathroom attached.