Sicily: Contrasts at a Meditteranean crossroads

Another interesting pressie about my magnificent island..

GIOVANNA DELL'ORTO writes For The Associated Press

MONREALE, Italy—I am inside one of the most glittering monuments to Christianity—the mosaic-filled cathedral of Monreale - talking to a conservator, whose apron is covered in Arabic script, about President Obama.
As our chat about possible new American policies in the Middle East interrupts his excruciatingly slow restoration of the Duomo's 900-year-old floor mosaic, I can't help thinking, only in Sicily.
Throughout its 2.5 millennia of history, this jarringly gorgeous Mediterranean island has been at the crossroads of drastically different cultures. Miraculously, it has managed to fuse those contrasts in a peaceful dialogue. The fruits of that fusion make Sicily one of the most intriguing regions of Europe.

Twice over the last decade, I have done weeklong tours of the island, marveling at everything from Catholic chapels bejeweled by Muslim artists to the everyday heroism of anti-Mafia businesses. A visit to Sicily is a study in the unexpected fusion of times and cultures. And these are a few of my favorite pairings:
MULTICULTURAL DEVOTIONS: Bleary-eyed from the overnight ferry that took me from Naples to Palermo, Sicily's capital, I made a beeline for the Cappella Palatina, the chapel built in the early 1100s by the Norman king in his palace complex. At 8:30 a.m., I had it for myself for a blissful few minutes before the tourist buses arrived, enough to be transported by the glitters of gold chasing each other from the wall mosaics into the painted kaleidoscope that is the carved wooden ceiling.

Under the patronage of Sicily's first Catholic king, Muslim artists executed the ceiling, complete with Kufic inscriptions, while Greek artists created mosaics representing Christ and New Testament scenes in the Byzantine tradition. Straight from the era of the crusades comes the most dazzling artistic and cultural synthesis of the medieval Mediterranean world. Nobody knows exactly how this harmony came about, but it's both inspiring and humbling to feel they had figured out a way to live symbiotically despite differences we are still struggling with 900 years later.

Other can't-miss glories of the Palermo area from the time of the Normans are the fortress-looking churches that hide eerily realistic golden mosaics: The Monreale Duomo, perched high on a barren, prickly-pear studded mountain; the Martorana church in Palermo, across from the mosque-looking, red-domed church of San Cataldo; and the Cathedral at Cefalu, standing sentinel over the medieval fishing village.

ANTIQUITY ALIVE: Ancient Greek colonizers snapped up the best vistas in Sicily. I can't decide if the most scenic archeological site in the Mediterranean is Segesta in its splendid valley isolation among pines and honey-scented wildflowers; Selinunte, framed by eucalypti on its Africa-facing sandy shores; the Taormina theater opening over the sea and the volcano, Mount Etna; or Agrigento's Valley of Temples, by sheer size the most stunning of them all. I like the latter best in the late afternoon, when the wind-eroded stone of its two best-preserved 450 B.C. Greek temples - the nearly intact Tempio della Concordia and the Tempio di Giunone up the ridge - turn strawberry gold in the dusk and then are floodlit among the dark silhouettes of olive trees and agave plants.

Much criticism has been aimed at the ugly concrete buildings from modern Agrigento looming over the next hillcrest, but I find the contrast can't possibly spoil this view. At most, I find it shames our modern cookie-cutter architecture juxtaposed to the hushed, solemn perfection of these temples.

REVITALIZING HIDDEN TREASURES: If Sicilians 2,500 years ago stunned by vistas, those who built palaces and piazzas in the Baroque era astonished by intricacies. Noto, Ragusa Ibla and my favorite, the Ortigia island neighborhood of Siracusa, are full of churches and palaces exuberantly carved with mythical figures and floral arrangements. Once literally crumbling in decay, they have been scrubbed to a shine like aristocratic drawing rooms. Subtler and more sumptuous at the same time are the palaces of the Sicilian nobility, those haunted by Burt Lancaster in the 1963 film "The Leopard."

Take two palaces where you can arrange to stay: The countryside villa of Baron Luigi Bordonaro di Chiaramonte, built in the 13th century inland from Agrigento, and the gorgeously frescoed Palazzo Ajutamicristo of the Barons Calefati di Canalotti in Palermo's historic center. Both young owners are gambling that tourism will help their historical treasures stay vital.
Maria Calefati said hers is one of five or six families who are staying in their ancestral palaces, revitalizing the still dangerously neglected core of Palermo. Bordonaro says of the villa and surrounding olive groves that have been in his family for 300 years: "It's my home, it's my commitment."

ATTRACTIONS: Most attractions listed have an admission fee, usually between $5-9 (4-7 euros). A car is necessary as distances are considerable; it's about 250 miles from Noto in the southeast to Segesta in the northwest. But don't drive in downtown Palermo, where congestion, scarce parking and the local driving style are difficult to cope with.

Tindari and the Story of the Black Madonna and Medusa

In mediaeval times the legend of the Black Madonna was augmented in France by some especially "esoteric" popular religious sects, common amongst them were the Knights Templars and Cathars. One of the central excuses the French monarchy issued in the persecution and destruction of the Knights Templars was the fact that they had adopted the Maure and had several "Baphomets" in their monasteries. The Templars had brought back with them the devotion to the Black Madonna from the Crusades.

The snake-haired Gorgon triplet Medusa is also a female Maure : And the only country with Medusa's Head on its flag is Sicily. The oldest surviving design of a Medusan Trinicria is in the mosaic in Tindari depicting the head of Medusa, in a geometrically circular black face.

Tindari is a cape that sits 10 kilometres east of the city of Patti on the northern coast of Sicily. Not on your usual tour itinerary, but Tindari, one of the many Greek / Roman sites in Sicily, spectacularly positioned on the island's North coast, is in yet another beautiful high altitude setting. Inside the huge purpose built 1950s Basilica located here, is the much revered Black Madonna - a larger than life iconic figure "from the East" dating back to the second half of the first millenium.

The mystery of the Sicilian Black Madonna , an image, a countenance which like the sunlight came as a gift to this land, via pathways still fraught with mystery from the Christian East sometime during the 7th Century. For hundreds of years it has patiently withstood raids by Saracens and pirates, conquerors and raiders, old and new, exhibiting the elegant sign of a continuity which recent restoration work has revealed in all its dignified beauty.

The Black Madonnas are associated with the earth, with darkness, mystery, and most importantly, with miracles. Many have theorised that these images and statues hearken back to the worship of the ancient Goddesses Isis and Demeter; indeed, some of the statues themselves are believed to be pre-Christian.

Many writers seeking to interpret the Black Madonnas suggest some combination of the following elements:

• Black Madonnas have grown out of a pre-Christian Earth Goddess tradition. Their dark skin may be associated with ancient images of these goddesses, and with the colour of fertile earth (such as around the volcanic Etna).

• Black Madonnas derive from the Egyptian goddess Isis. The dark skin may echo an African archetypal mother figure.

• Black Madonnas portrayed the original skin tone of the Virgin Mary, thus placing the figures in apt historical contexts, as Jesus' family was more likely than not to have Semitic colours and features.

Another beautiful legend arising from Tindari is the story of the Lagoon of Tindari. The story tells how a woman pilgrim refused to pray to the Madonna because she was black. The woman accidentally dropped her baby in the sea but the Black Madonna raised the sand in order to save the baby and demonstrate her compassion. The shape of the sands of the lagoon now show an image representing the profile of the Madonna (see photo).


If all of this intrigues you, why not consider a stop over in Patti, only a short stroll from Tindari. You can sleep at the picturesque farm-stay accommodation, Villa Rica surrounded by centuries old olive trees, lemon groves, fruit orchards and the particular Mediterranean vegetation.

The Castle of Carini

Constructed by Ruggero II between 1075 and 1090, the Castle of Carini is superbly positioned atop the highest rock of the hill. Stately and unconquered from the North side, while looking down on a strong and imaginary enemy already defeated, it is outlined against the blue sky during the day as if it were at the outer limits of the universe, while its silhouette against the dark night sky makes one shiver with fear as if it were a Shakespearean Castle.

It was here, in this Castle, on one clear morning of December 1563, in contrast to the beauty of that day, the limpidity of the sky, the green of the hills and the mountains, that the Baroness of Carini fell victim to the murderous fury of her father, to the blind rage of a father cruel and inhumane. This is according to the story that the unknown poet tells us throughout his poem.
This deed of blood spilt would have been lost in the darkness of time, if this poet, had not romanticised that tragedy of the Talamanca-La Grua family, giving us, at the same time, one of the most beautiful poems of the Sicilian literature.

"The fine lily, that spreads its scent, immersed in its own leafage, it wants to soothe the worries of love... and it doesn't answer these cares; but inside powerful ardours blaze. She goes dreamy and all confused...and always that the reason has no value, that so love rules everybody" Read more

A poem full of humanity, compassion, true sorrow, and poetic beauty, making us forget that we really do not know the true story of the tragedy that hit the Talamanca-La Grua family in that distant year of 1563, and helps us in empathising with the pain of that great loss. One thing is certain, even if now we are in the most mature stage of the Humanism, no rights existed in the human and civil history of man.

The feudal system is in full flow and the people are subject to injustice and barbarism. These are endured not only by the subjects at large but impose themselves on every social rank to the point that the dreams of young people were exchanged as mere merchandise; in fact weddings were arranged by families based on political motives, keeping in sight the social rank and power together with the price (how much they owned) of the candidates, without any regard at all to the spiritual welfare nor the feelings of those candidates.

The news (of the death of the Baroness) caused reverberation all over Sicily: It caused astonishment, wonder, gossip and sorrow. It is in the intrinsic ties of pain with the Sicilian soul from whence rises the unknown voice that cries, threatens, condemns, and at last, takes vengeance over the brutality, haughtiness, insensibility and hypocrisy of the feudal system. It is the suppression of the individual liberty by the feudal tyranny and the bondage of the values held most dear to man that the voices rise up.

In the case of the "Baroness of Carini" it is the ineffable pain of the loss of the beautiful Castellana that makes the Sicilian language flourish in all its splendour. As the story goes, in 1563 the very beautiful daughter of Count Mussomeli, Laura Lanza, bride of Don Vincenzo La Grua, falls in love with Ludovico Vernagallo who reciprocates her affection. Her father, desiring to protect the honour of the family name, attempts to end to this dalliance, but it is the love which is between them that resists all attempts.

The count, Laura's father, was pitiless and murders them both in order to ensure that the honour of the family has been protected. In the passing of time the episode has assumed colours of legend and has become one of the most favourite subject of poets and ballad-singers.

With a splendid view of the coast, Carini leads along Corso Umberto I to the horseshoe-shaped stairs surrounding the mediaeval fountain of the abbey.

Having climbed the stairs and passed beneath the 12th century arch, you will come to the old hamlet and the Castle.

How to get there :

Only 20 km from Palermo, to reach Carini is very easy : Simply follows the A29 motorway toward Trapani-Mazzara del Vallo. Exit Carini. Then follow the SS113 and turn left to SP3 - A scenic drive will bring you up on a hill, where Carini is nestled.

Scenic drives: A salty journey

In proximity to Trapani, the saltpans are located a few kilometres to the south of the town and form part of the Riserva Naturale delle Saline, where panels of mirror-like water, held by thin strips of earth, synchronise to form an irregular and multicoloured scene.

At Paceco/Nubia the picturesque Museo del Sale can be found inside an old windmill overlooking the lagoon, (via delle Saline Tel. 0923/867442) detailing the history of the salt extracting industry. Although the importance of this local industry has waned since the 19th century, windmills are still used to supply the energy required to pump seawater from one basin to another.

Drive across the romantic "Strada del Sale" - Salt Way Road, that include a complex of brackish wetlands (Stagnone di Marsala), saltpans (Saline di Trapani) and islets (Isole dello Stagnone di Marsala) along the west coast of Sicily, south of the town of Trapani. Enjoy this scenic drive along citrus scented trails, swaying vines, and glistening salt pans.

This is a tricky road though and if you miss the right turn you might find yourself stuck into awful concrete towns and smoky industrial areas so you better bring a map or guide with you.

The Stagnone di Marsala is one of the last remaining lagoons in Sicily. It measures 10 km (north-south) by 3 km. It has an average depth of 1 m (maximum is only 2.5 m). where you will admire the contrasting bright white saltpans against the blue waters where pink flamingos, storks and grey herons bath among.

Part of the Stagnone Islands is Motya, (Mozia in Italian) an archaeological park occupies an entire island, where the 8th-century BC Phoenician and later, Carthaginian, city thrived. Dionysus I of Syracuse destroyed Motya in 398 BC, leaving ruins of intricate fortifications, docks, homes decorated with mosaic flooring, and other structures. The extensive archaeological collections of the Museo Whitaker - Open 9am–3pm (until 7pm Jun–Oct) - are displayed as Whitaker intended – the highlight is the outstanding Greek marble statue of a youth in a diaphanous pleated tunic (c.440 BC).

You can reach Motya with a short boat ride across the lagoon (10 minutes)

Our favourite drive :

Approx 29 km excursion between Trapani and Marsala along the SP 21: allow a whole day to include a visit to the Island of Mozia.

From Trapani, follow the coast road (SP 21) to Marsala which provides a succession of fine views over the saltpans of Trapani and those at Stagnone. The first stop is Nubia.
Nubia – The headquarters of the Worldwide Fund for Nature (138 Via Garibaldi) manages the Riserva Naturale Salma di Trapani e Paceco, a saltwater nature reserve habitat where 170 species of bird – resident and migratory – have been recorded. Indeed, it is not unusual to see migrating flamingos, storks, cranes and herons.

From Nubia, return to the main road and continue towards the Stagnone Lagoon, where the most spectacular saltpans are located. A sign indicates the way to the Ettore e Infersa saltworks.

There are many embarcaderos (small boat) to Mozia departing from different location along the Lagoon. After a visit to the island of Mozia you can get back to the coastal road that weaves its way to Marsala along a very pleasant route, which can be breathtakingly spectacular at sunset.

Spa Heaven

Imagine pampering yourself with a Sicilian high salt energizer : a total body exfoliation followed by a gentle massage with local olive oil and Sicilian citrus fruits extracts.

Enjoy the soothing effects of warm volcanic clay followed by a dip into the natural hot springs situated inside grottos, lakes and at the slopes of a massive volcano : Sicily is a real spa heaven.

Hot springs and natural beauty treatment tradition in Sicily lies in volcanic subterranean activity, recorded from Roman times. A spa itinerary reveals an aspect of Sicily that is perhaps less known but not for this, less fascinating. The starting point is Acireale, north of Catania. Situated in the Santa Venera al Pozzo district where the Hot Springs Park is today. Sourced from volcano Etna, these amazing spas literally warmly welcome visitors providing a relaxing and rejuvenating holiday. Richard Wagner was also a Sicilian hot springs assiduous visitor.

Driving towards Messina you will reach Ali Terme spa, just after Taormina : its facilities – Marino and Granata Cassibile – were even “”promoted” by Descartes during his trip to Italy (1623-1625).

The next stop along the Tyrrhenian coast is Terme Vigliatore: it relies on the Source of Venus, one of the few sulphurous waters that can be drunk normally.

Termini Imerese (Palermo) is ancient Thermae Himerensis: vestiges of the old facilities remain in the 19th century Grand Hotel delle Terme , where you can chose between several thermal treatments. (bath towels are not included, therefore bring your own if you don't want to pay an extra fee!)

But if you are in Palermo, why not indulging in a purifying Turkish bath at the Hammam Centre.

Leaving Palermo behind you, you will reach Castellamare del Golfo (Trapani) with its fine Aragonese Castle. Terme Segestane spa in the Ponte Bagni district is located near the springs the nymphs forced to flow in order to refresh Hercules. Calatafimi is just a few kilometres away: from Monte Barbaro, the Greek theatre of Segesta dominates the plain, while the hot spring facilities are near the Gorga stream in an old renovated watermill.

For a luxury treatment and total bliss head toward Mazara del Vallo, at the Kempisky Hotel Giardino di Costanza where Daniela Steiner runs her splendid spa. Try the special moonlit massage to channel the lunar energies or chose between the long list of special treatments that combine Sicilian natural produce and scientific rigour.

Going south you will arrive at Montevago (Agrigento) with its Acqua Pia hot springs surrounded by a lush park. And finally there is Sciacca along the coast, the oldest spa on the island. According to the myth, it was Daedalus who made the steam vents, hollowed out of the rock, now called San Calogero.

But the natural spa heaven par excellance is to be found all over the Sicilian island of Pantelleria.

The island offers a large variety of hot springs, as well as dry natural saunas, in the grottoes and wells scattered around the island and coast. You can reach the Benikulà grotto through a fault in the rock in the Sibà district. Water vapour at around 38°C comes out of a crack in the ground providing a true natural sauna. The sulphurous spring in Lake Specchio di Venere is very popular, while the baths in the natural basins along the coast are a must: Gadir Cove, Sataría Grotto and Niká Cove. The great thing is that all this comes for free!

Useful information
Sulphurous iodic bromine salt waters gush out at Acireale (at 22°C), at Alì Terme (at Marino at 39.5°C and at Granata Cassibile at 46.5°C), at Termini Imerese (at 43°C) and at Sciacca (at 55.4°C); alkaline at Calatafimi-Segesta (at 52°C); muddy alkaline phosphate salty at Castellamare del Golfo (at 44.1°C): therapeutic recommendations include treatment for diseases of the skin, locomotive and respiratory system. At Montevago, the magnesium calcium sulphate water (at 39°C) is recommended for diseases of the locomotive and respiratory system. At Terme Vigliatore, the water of the Source of Venus at 32.6°C is also recommended for diseases of the liver, biliary ducts and digestive system. The acid radioactive waters of Vulcano are also recommended to treat articular rheumatism and arthritis while the baths in Pantelleria have an extraordinary energising effect. All the hot spring facilities also offer other wellness and beauty cures and treatments (including cosmetic massages, kinesi and hydrokinesitherapy, fitness and anti-stress programmes), and are equipped with hot spring pools and playgrounds for children. At Acireale, the Santa Venera Hot Springs holds classical music and jazz concerts, theatre and dance shows in the summer.

City SightSeeing Palermo

It's easy, it's convenient, it's fun.

It's also the best way to give you a quick overview of the city, before defining an itinerary for the rest of your stay, deciding which area of the city you want to visit again on your own and which sites you would like to see in more details.

With the Hop on Hop off tour of Palermo, you will enjoy an exciting visit to the city.

You can purchase tickets on board for 20 euros per person, departing from the terminal nearby the Teatro Politeama, but you can also join the tour at every stop.

Line A bus will drive in front of the Teatro Massimo, one of the most famous opera houses in Europe, continuing towards Piazza Quattro Canti and the nearby Vucciria Market.
The tour continues towards the Botanical Gardens, passing near Palazzo Steri.

After a quick glimpse of the Central Station, you will find yourselves in the vicinity of the Royal Palace, following the Flea Market and the Cathedral, before stopping at the port and then returning to the terminal.

Line B has a different itinerary including the Castle of La Zisa, the colorful open-air market Mercato del Capo, the Massimo Theatre and other interesting stops.

Commentary on both lines is multi-lingual (including English) and you will each be given individual earphones.

Timetable

January to March
Line A - 10:00am to 1:00pm, every 60 minutes
Line B - 2:00pm to 5:00pm, every 60 minutes
April to October
Line A - 9:30am to 6:30pm, every 30 minutes
Line B - 1:00pm to 6:00pm, every 60 minutes
November to December
Line A - 10:00am to 1:00pm, every 30 minutes
Line B - 2:00pm to 5:00pm, every 60 minutes

The Complete Idiot's Guide to Driving in Palermo (Part 3)

This week we have another instalment of the essential driving companion for roads in Sicily (you will find Part One and Part Two here and here). Read carefully - this could save your life!

Rule #8. What's a Stop Sign Between Friends?
This is a very important rule for you budding students of the art of true driving, so listen carefully and pay attention. Road signs in Sicily are better considered as "advisory". When in doubt, it is better to be polite and nice to your fellow drivers and let them pass regardless of what the road sign says. In fact, upon approaching an intersection where your opposing driver has a stop sign and needs to give way to you, rather than passing him by, allowing him to drive off when the road is safe and clear, isn't it far better to suddenly hit the brakes and stop for him? Not only will your confused opposing driver be appreciative and thankful, but you will also receive the thanks from the five other drivers behind you, who will no doubt be rushing to thank you personally, right after swapping their details with all the other cars they have just crashed into. This method is far more effective when used on the busier roads.

Rule 9#. Roundabout...what the!!!!
There are probably 5,000 roundabouts within the confines of greater Palermo, in fact you will most likely find them on every second or third road corner, but the amazing thing is that very few Palermitans have actually seen one, far less have driven one. This can be the only explanation upon witnessing a Palermo driver who approaches a roundabout as if it was something that landed from out of space. At first sight they immediately slam the brakes on, fearing that the roundabout was suddenly placed on the middle of the road where there was none before. Then as they enter the roundabout you see intense confusion and concentration on their face. "What the @$#% is happening here", you can see them mouth. "Do I drive faster, slower, how do I get out of here?". Often the best method as a student of Sicilian driving is to actually stop while in the roundabout. This is best because it gives you time to think about the way out and to just generally, take a break. When you feel a little more confident you can exit the roundabout, but please do so at either a very slow, snail-like pace, or driving like a man possessed (either extreme will suffice). Make sure you repeat this behaviour during every encounter with a roundabout.

Rule #10. Responsive Emergency Services.
The sound of the Italian language is often regarded by many as being like a song with its dulcet sweet tones and melodious rhythm. It is considered to be the language of love, of passion, of art and of everything beautiful. So to, the sound of the water and of the wind on the Sicilian island of Salina was famously recorded on a tape recorder by Massimo Troisi in the touching movie, Il Postino (The Postman), because it was the most beautiful and peaceful sound he had ever experienced. Beautiful and peaceful sounds are not to be found in the main cities of Palermo. But you will find noise. The only sound that has any rhythm or melody is the ambulance siren. There is an ambulance in full siren mode, passing every hour on any given road in Palermo. It is so frequent and regular (and indeed predictable) than whenever there is a car accident, no one feels the need to call an ambulance for the injured parties, as everyone knows that there is one "right around the corner". "Just as night follows day, and ambulance will pass this road in the next few minutes" - Old Sicilian Proverb

In fact many Sicilian families with very elderly grandparents living with them, often prefer to live as close to the main roads as possible in case their nonna or nonno needs emergency assistance. This is the practical side to Sicilians.

The Complete Idiot's Guide to Driving in Palermo (Part 2)

Following on from Part One of this series...


Rule # 6. Ready...Steady...Toot.

In a civilised world where gentlemen drink tea and eat cucumber sandwiches over a lively game of croquet, the idea of tooting one's car horn is seen as quite distasteful and downright boorish. In another world, that is equally civilised (in its own endearing way), the idea that one does not toot their horn is almost unheard of. In Sicily, the art of tooting has progressed to such an extent that has witnessed the development of the "pre-emptive toot". Yes; this is a toot that occurs, not in response to an alleged slight or wrongdoing on behalf of the opposing driver but on the belief that the opposing driver may be about to do something wrong. And nowhere is this more evident than at the busy traffic lights in an average Sicilian city. A mere split second before the light turns green one hears a chorus of tooting from the myriad of cars behind the first row. The drivers, of course, are rightfully assuming that the driver in the first row is either not paying attention to the changing traffic lights or has simply fallen asleep (as is often the case in the land of siestas), and in their civic duty to traffic order, these drivers take it upon themselves to warn the front row drivers, just in case they happened to have forgotten what a green traffic light actually means. The highest form of the pre-emptive toot that I have witnessed occurred in Messina when a large semi-trailer employed a pre-emptive toot strategy even though, when the traffic started moving, the truck's acceleration was so excruciatingly slow, that all those around it started tooting at it too. This, for clarification purposes, is called a "post-incident" toot.
As a postscript, if you think the Sicilian pre-emptive toot is extreme, may I advise you to travel to Malaysia where drivers refuse to drive their car and claim it doesn't work upon discovering that their horn is broken.

Rule # 7. Your life flashing before your eyes.

Upon overtaking another car, please ensure that you flash your lights incessantly at the car you are overtaking. Never mind that you are either blinding the unfortunate driver or sending him or her into an epileptic fit, without a series of high beam flashes there is simply no way in the world they can tell that you are about to overtake them.. You see, rear vision mirrors were never meant to be used to see what is behind. Oh no, on the contrary, they were produced to enable Sicilians to hang a plethora of rosary beads, fluffy dice, crucifixes, Padre Pio toys, and anything else that provides a bit of colour to their cars. The fact that they also obscure the view of oncoming traffic is an added bonus. What I love about this rule is the assumption that everyone on the road will inevitably sway into your lane just as you are overtaking them and no one will ever look behind. The scary thing is that they are right.


Part Three of this series can found here.

Sicily on the road

From May 20-24, 2007 the Motogiro d’Italia, the oldest Italian motorcycle road race, will be revived on the most beautiful roads of Eastern Sicily. For the seventh year in a row, the Motogiro d’Italia has been organised by Dream Engine with Ducati Motor Holding as its main sponsor.

Hundreds of bikes, passionate riders and collectors from all over the world will contribute to recreating the atmosphere, the style and the spirit of the original race. At the same time enthusiasts will be able to enjoy Sicily in the springtime and will see a parade of the best of Italian motorcycles ever produced: Ducati, Morini, MV Agusta, Moto Guzzi, Benelli, Bianchi, Piaggio, Gilera and Motobi. To keep bond with history alive, riders Maoggi and Venturi, Motogiro champions from the 1950’s, will return as guests of honour. The enthusiasm for the Motogiro revival has been constantly increasing since the first edition in 2001 and the number of participants has almost tripled.
The Motogiro 2007 will begin and ending in the town of Sciacca (Agrigento), an acclaimed thermal location famous since ancient times for its gentle climate and the healing properties with waters rich with minerals. Each of the 5 legs, approximately 250 km each, will push East and will take riders as far as the slopes of Mount Etna. Here is the tentative itinerary:

19 May 2007: Preliminary operations at Sciacca. 20 May 2007, leg 1: Sciacca-Chiusa Sclafani–Selinunte-Sciacca 21 May 2007, leg 2: Sciacca-Piazza Armerina-Brucoli 22 May 2007, leg 3: Brucoli-Noto-Ragusa Ibla-Brucoli 23 May 2007, leg 4: Brucoli-Zafferana-Catania-Brucoli 24 May 2007, leg 5: Brucoli-Caltagirone-Agrigento-Sciacca.

The route was created to work well for vintage motorcycles and as often as possible, riders will ride a loop, departing and arriving at the same city. Each itinerary was studied to create a unique ride with a plethora of beautiful panoramas and interesting tourism points along the coast and inland.

Each route has numerous pre-designated rest stops made possible thanks to local agencies and motorcycling clubs. At the end of each ride participants will be welcomed by the Motogiro Village set up in each arrival city. At the final prize giving dinner, participants will be guests of the ‘Presidenza della Regione Siciliana’ and the overall winner of the Vintage Class will be awarded a special Motogiro 2007 Ducati motorcycle.

The Motogiro d’Italia 2007 relies on the support of Ducati Motor the event’s main sponsor. The event is also made possible thanks to the support of: Presidenza Regione Siciliana, Motociclismo d'Epoca, Assessorato Regionale al Turismo Regione Siciliana, Provincia di Siracusa, Comune di Sciacca, and the Comune di Augusta.

The Complete Idiot's Guide to Driving in Palermo (for non Palermitans)

Rule #1. Driving in Palermo is a Contact Sport.

Once a person decides (after a lobotomy or some other brain reducing surgery) that they feel an inner desire to drive in Palermo they need to be made aware that driving in Palermo is fun. People from Palermo treat driving as a sport, a kind of game. Some games you play are board games, others are card games, others involve some exercise like tennis or golf. At the top of this game apex are those games that involve more than physical exertion, they involve full body on body contact. It is only in these type of games, such as rugby or American football, that the true nature of our competitive instincts come out. This is the type of game preferred by Palermitans, when it comes to driving.

Rule #2. Act like a fish that grows to the size of its pond.

This rule is incredibly important to all first time visitors to Palermo roads. No matter how wide or how narrow the road you are driving on is, you must, as a true Palermitan (or aspiring one at that), metaphorically grow your car so that it can use all the road surface. Why build such a wide road if it cannot be fully utilised? So like the astute buyer who wants to get the maximum "bang for his buck", you too must swerve as much as possible all over the road so as to use the maximum amount of road surface. Only then will you experience that incredible feeling of satisfaction one receives upon the realisation that you are undoubtedly getting your driving money's worth. If in doubt about how much of the road to use, think of how a fish's growth is limited only by the size of its pond. You too as an aspiring Palermitan driver must drive your car to the size of the road.

Rule #3. Road Works - Preparation is the best Medicine.

The good folk at the Palermo Road Works department have discovered a revelation in roadwork management. They are of the firm belief that the best way to carry out road works is to let people know in advance. This type of public information is not given in billboards, or newspaper ads informing the public of impending road works. No, that doesn't work here. Who reads the newspapers for anything else but soccer and politics anyway? The best way, and the tried and true method, is to block off a lane of traffic a week or so before you actually start the road works. This genius of an idea allows commuters to understand, while they are stuck in a traffic jam extending 5km and taking an extra hour to get home, what will be happening in a week, and therefore, allowing them to get "used to it". Road works should never be a surprise. Brilliant!

Rule #4. Shoot First. Ask Questions Later.

How do normal drivers approach a turn into a T-intersection in order to join the main road? Well, they approach the intersection and give way or stop until the traffic clears enough for them to turn into the main road. Safe, yes. Proper, yes. Boring, yes. That's not how they do it in Palermo. The way of the streets here is to approach a T-junction as if there was no traffic at all and place the nose of your car inside the intersection so that anyone driving in the lane closer to the side of the road has to stop, or at least slow down considerably, in order to avoid you, thus allowing you entry into the main road unimpeded.

Rule #5. Busy Road/Quiet Road.

A busy or fully packed road is like a subconscious stimulus to a Palermitan that he is in a hurry (I tend to use the masculine here for simplicity, not because of the fact that many traditional Sicilian women are forbidden to drive ;) . He could have all the time in the world and be casually driving along, but upon entering a busy road, he suddenly turns to be a man possessed, a man who is late for his own wedding. Nothing can get in his way, he will use all resources at his disposal in order to move one car ahead of his sworn enemies (basically everybody else on the road). He will happily knock over an elderly lady at a pedestrian crossing if it results him climbing the road ordinal rankings of this road. An emergency stopping lane? What's that, he says to himself as he realises that he can climb four places ahead. Conversely, as soon as the same man turns into a quieter street, he suddenly realises that there is no rush, there is no hurry. In fact, he will slow down to admire the road. While admiring the craftsmanship of the particular tar that the builders placed on this road he will also be oblivious to the 20 cars behind him wishing he would move out of second gear.



Well, I hope these rules are of value to all you burgeoning Palermo drivers. Stay tuned for the next instalment of the The Idiot's Guide to Driving in Palermo, while part three can be found here.

Dodging bullets

Today is a special day in my history of living Sicily. It was today that I received my first death threat from a local mafioso, and I intend to wear this as a "badge of honour". This is like a coming of age for a Sicilian I think, you can never stand up and proudly call yourself a man until some local, illiterate, goat appreciating, low level member of the mafia has threatened to blow your head off with his rabbit hunting rifle.

One of the greatest pleasures in life is to drive around the amazing Sicilian countryside. For a lover of nature and rural driving Sicily, is savagely beautiful, with its mountain ranges meeting the crystal clear Mediterranean water. Conversley, one of the greatest dangers in life is to actually drive anywhere in Sicily. Driving is truly a contact sport for the Sicilians. In a land where acquiring a driving license in as easy as waking up in the morning, travelling 100 km without seeing at least one or two accidents is the exception, not the norm.

This weekend, we decided to take a "working" tour of the wineries and agriturismi surrounding the Mount Etna area. We are organising a tour for 25 wine and food lovers coming from Malta over Easter ready to indulge themselves in the finest, authentic Sicilian produce and wine. So in the name of research and preparation we spent a weekend of tastings and samplings. Life can be hard sometimes.

While driving to inspect a beautiful agriturismo property amidst the spectacular Alcantara Gorges, located down one side of the smouldering Etna, it was necessary for us to take a narrow, winding country road. Behind me was an amazingly fat man in an amazingly small Ape (the gravity defying three wheeled mini pick up tucks found all over Sicily), blaring his horn in an incredible display of impatience. You need to be aware that these Ape's have an engine not much larger than the average lawn mower, so to one trying to overtake you akin to you driving as fast as granny on a church day.

Admittedly, we were driving slow, not only because of the dangerous, narrow and winding road, but also because of the incredible view that the gorges offered us in the distance. One never ceases to be amazed at the incredible natural beauty of Sicily.

As we turned a blind corner we were faced bumper to bumper with an old Sicilian man in his little white VW bug. Fortunately we stopped within millimetres of the VW, but unfortunately for the man in the Ape behind us, who we shall refer to endearingly as "uomo grasso", he didn't appear to have the luxury of brakes, preferring, I believe, the Fred Flintstone method of stopping his vehicle. As a result he ploughed into a stone wall next to us to our right. Remember the top speed of these Ape's is about as fast as a sloth on valium, so you would expect the damage to be minimal. Not so, the windscreen shattered like a match stick. Although this was probably because the vehicle was indeed constructed with match sticks.

Out emerged our "uomo grasso", and with his large, but malleable figure quickly retaking the form of a vaguely human shape after having a shape similar to the outline of the small drivers compartment of the Ape he was in, he loudly and aggressively remonstrated with us, blaming us for his stupidity and sheer madness in trying to overtake on a blind narrow corner - and in an Ape for god's sake!

Within minutes, as always happens anywhere in Sicily, 10 curious onlookers popped up. It seems no matter where you are in Sicily, you could be in the remotest corner of the island, and if an accident occurs, 10 people will always pop up to offer their "help" and opinions. This appears to be one their national sports and pastimes. Where these people came, I have no idea. We were in the countryside, miles from any village.

One of the onlookers, took us aside and said something along the lines of the fact that our "uomo grasso" was only a poor, simple peasant, and we should feel sorry for him. In fact, we should offer him a small amount of money to help him as he will not be able to afford to repair his working truck, the Ape. At this stage, we were thinking that maybe 20 or 30 euro would be a good an kind hearted gesture. As long as he didn't spent it on hamburgers, I would have been happy. The "small amount" that the onlooker was referring to was not 20 or 30 euro but 700 euro!. And he said this with a totally straight face. We couldn't help but burst out laughing at this proposal. I was laughing until I realised that I was in a foreign country, in a foreign place, with little language skills, in a remote country road, with about 10 hardcore, native, dialect speaking Sicilian men staring at me as if I was Marilyn Monroe with a two day growth, next to one of their "brothers" in a smashed-up working truck. It then dawned upon me that laughing in their faces was not necessarily a smart, or life-extending, thing to do.

These were situations that Alice had warned be about living in Sicily. No one can hear you scream and no one will know you are gone.

Although we dropped the laughing routine we still kept up our bravado, this is Sicily after all, and said that we were happy to pay the 700 euro if that is what the insurance company says and we will call the police now to adjudge the situation.

At that stage, "uomo grasso" told us to forget about it and leave - Now! No doubt because he lacked any insurance or registration at all for his Ape. Taking our cue we jumped straight back in the car and drove off within a microsecond, but not before "uomo grasso" had threatened to execute us Sicilian style (whatever that means, and I do not intend not speculate) in the heaviest Sicilian dialect I have ever heard.

We did get out of this situation alive, and there was probably never any real danger, but in Sicily you just never know. This is a harsh land. Maybe that is why I feel such an affinity and connection with it. The harshness of the Australian countryside, while very different, evokes similar emotions. It is the feeling that Sicily is not for beginners - it is a wild place with danger yet incredible beauty and immense satisfaction. To conquer Sicily is to conquer life.